How to Paint Walls Near a Ceiling: 14 Steps (with Pictures)
Put the tape on the wall, with the top edge right up at the ceiling. Now paint wall color over the top edge of the tape where it meets the ceiling. With good preparation and a few tricks of the trade, painting interior ceilings and walls is a simple process that can yield professional results. Getting that precise, straight line on edges of a wall or where the wall meets ceiling is one of the hardest parts of painting. It's even worse if you.
I've used that technique on walls with the godforsaken knockdown texture, and gotten satisfactory edges. A good brush, properly loaded, will glide along nice and steady for the 18" or so mentioned above - then, drop the hand slightly and curve downward, and pick up a bit before that with a freshly loaded brush. You'll get the hang of it.
The trick is to paint ceilings and trim first and overlap the ceiling and trim onto the wall by like a centimeter or so, and then come around and do the darker wall color with the paint pads. By letting them roll against the angle, you get these long, clean, straight strokes very easily.
Paint the walls almost to the top. Then while standing on a ladder such that you're at a slightly-bent arm distance from the wall, paint horizontally from the already-colored area. As you move across, slowly nudge up into the very top unpainted part of the wall.
How to Paint a Perfect Line Between Wall and Ceiling - Home Decorating & Painting Advice
I tried those painting pads. I tried a bunch of other methods. They all sucked - my mother-in-law with shaky hands who can't feel her feet so ladders really are awful went back and touched up all my messes. And showed me how to properly cut in walls. There are probably youtube videos showing how to do it without messing up. The trick is to keep the joint knife clean and to not overload the brush. They'll be several times more expensive than cheap brushes.
Paint the ceiling first, right into the corner and a bit of the wall. When all coats completely dry, do the cutting in: Put a decent amount of paint on the brush, and spread it over about feet along the wall but an inch or so away from the ceiling line you can do this quickly. This pre-loads the paint into the right area. Now with the other side of the brush, pointing the bristles upwards at 45 degrees put it against the wall and push into the wall until the last of the bristle tips exactly touches the line you want.
Drag the paintbrush along the wall, using pressure into and out of the wall in order to adjust the line if necessary. The brush won't run out of paint because it's always picking up the big dollop line you painted first. You should be able to do at least feet at a time assuming you're on a small stepladder fairly quickly and once you practice you should be able to keep within less than 1mm of the perfect line. Most importantly, when you've done go back along the same portion of the wall, placing the brush fairly flat and parallel to the ceiling line, "laying off" the paint.
Stay about mm away from the ceiling line to avoid stuff-ups. The paint right in the corner will be good, see, but the paint below that will be unevenly applied. This laying-off brush stroke fixes that and means that the entire width of the brush 3" is good paint evenly spread. With wall-wall joints just slap lots of paint both sides and lay it off as above. Once the entire wall is cut in you can roll it. A normal sized room should take around an hour to paint -- minutes for the cutting in and 10 minutes for the rolling.
Second coat is the same but usually much faster as you don't need to be quite as precise with the cutting in. You can usually stay mm from the edge although you can creep up and down a little to fix any slight imperfections in the line of the first coat. Almost never use tape. The key is a good angled brush and you want to be always pushing a little bubble of paint in front of the brush. You use the surface tension on the edge of the bubble to rather than the bristols.
Take your time and pay attention is all that's needed. Then - and this is key - forbid yourself from looking at the ceiling for a month. Whether your surfaces will need a base coat will depend on the surface and the kind of paint you have chosen. When you buy your paint, consult with your paint dealer about whether a primer is needed mention the current wall color and, if it is, the best primer to use.
Priming does not have to be as precise as painting, but primer must cover the surfaces fully. Apply it to the ceiling first and then the walls.
Paint in the same order as you applied the primer—ceiling first and then walls. Brush or roll from top to bottom. If the primer you chose was of good quality, you may need only one coat of paint. If you are painting rather than staining or finishing trim, do so after you have painted the ceiling and walls. Go from top to bottom, such as ceiling molding to chair rails to baseboards.
You can paint window and door trim either before or after you paint the baseboards, though before is better if you are painting the whole room as a single project.
How to Cut-In With a Paintbrush Although a roller is easiest for applying paint to the broad surfaces of walls and ceilings, a roller will not apply paint all of the way into corners or to the edges of trim.
Cut in the corners before you roll paint on the main surfaces. This means painting both sides of each corner starting about two brush lengths away and painting in to the corner.
Use a 2- or 3-inch brush for paints. You can cut-in around the trim either before or after rolling. Because the drying time of flat and eggshell latex paint is so short, you can cut-in an entire room before filling in the walls. Semigloss or gloss latex and alkyd paints take much longer to dry but will leave a demarcation line if the walls are not filled in while the paint is still wet.
How to Paint a Straight Ceiling Line
For this reason, if you are using any of these paints, you should cut-in one corner and fill in the wall before cutting-in the next corner. If the same paint is being used for the wall and ceiling, you can cut-in the ceiling-to-wall connection just as you would the corners of a room.
If the ceiling is being painted a different color, paint it first and then the walls. Whether painting a ceiling or a wall, be sure to cut-in around light fixtures, outlets, windows, doors, and any other fixed items before filling in the rest of the surface with a brush or roller. If you fall into this category and are planning to paint a large surface, there are a few techniques that can help you achieve the best results.
Before you even dip a brush into a paint tray or bucket, you must properly prepare it, which means removing any bristles that have come loose. To do this, roll the brush back and forth in your hands and then shake it well.
How do I paint the corners of walls where the ceiling and walls are different colors?
When you are first using a new brush, start by slowly stirring it in the paint; this will slightly spread the bristles, allowing them to hold the paint better.
Dip the brush straight up and down two or three times until the bristles are saturated about a third of their length. Then, to make sure your brush does not drip, slap it against the side of the bucket. Do not run the brush against the rim of the bucket as this will remove too much paint and may also cause the bristles to stick together. After cutting-in the corners, work in sections about 3 feet square. Hold the brush so that your thumb rests on one side of the ferrule the metal strip that connects the bristles to the handle and your four fingers are spread evenly on the other side.
Unlike holding the brush by the handle, this allows you to control the angle of the brush without having to change the position of your hand. Apply the paint smoothly over the first section, holding the brush at a degree angle. When you get to the end of a stroke, let up on the pressure and then reverse direction. Paint back in to the wet edge to prevent lap marks.
When you have finished a section, paint the section into the previous one to blend them.